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Humagne Rouge 2005, Bonvin
One day I might write a book about wine fraud. It is almost as fascinating a subject as wine itself, and it has been going on for a very long time indeed. In the first century AD the Roman satirist Petronius described a banquet given by a man called...
Artemis 2005, Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars
You often hear enthusiasts discuss a wine’s complexity, or lack of it. The term is seldom defined or even explained. Until the other day I assumed this was because its meaning was completely obvious. Now I am not so sure. My understanding is thi...
Château D’Aiguilhe, Côtes de Castillon 2005
The other night I opened a red from Moulis en Medoc. It smelled like a rugby player’s socks and tasted like oven cleaner. “Oh well,” I told myself philosophically. “Duff bottle. Can’t win ‘em all.” But...
Folly Syrah 2004, Montes
You will find plenty of stories and legends surrounding wine, but almost none about grapes. This is hardly surprising. A potent, aromatic liquid is mysterious, and therefore romantic. A piece of fruit has no mystery and is essentially dull, except ...
Chablis Premier Cru 2006, Joseph Drouhin
Sipping this wine the other day, I reflected on how dramatically tastes and habits change. In the 1970s I drank Chablis a lot. Nowadays I drink it once every four or five years. This is not because I like it any less. On the contrary, I am sure I get...
Tohu Pinot Noir 2006, Marlborough
I don’t suppose any country, not even Great Britain, offers consumers as great a choice of wines as the United States. A mile from where I live, an emporium the size of an aircraft hangar sells more than 8000 labels from practically every wine-prod...

